Capturing Yosemite: Ansel Adams’ Vision

One of the most iconic photographers of the 20th century, Ansel Adams is renowned for his breathtaking black-and-white images of the American wilderness. Among his most celebrated works are those captured in Yosemite National Park, a place that profoundly influenced his life and career.


Early Encounters

Adams first visited Yosemite National Park in 1916 at the age of 14. Armed with a Kodak Brownie camera, he was immediately captivated by the park’s majestic landscapes. This initial visit sparked a lifelong passion for photography and the natural world. The beauty of Yosemite’s granite cliffs, towering sequoias, and cascading waterfalls provided endless inspiration for Adams, who returned to the park year after year.

In 1919, Adams joined the Sierra Club, an environmental organization dedicated to preserving the wilderness. He spent several summers working as the caretaker of the Sierra Club’s LeConte Memorial Lodge in Yosemite Valley, where he honed his photographic skills and developed a profound appreciation for the park’s natural beauty.

‘Half Dome, Merced River, Winter’ (Photo by Ansel Adams c.1938)

Adams’ early works in Yosemite were characterized by their sharp focus and high contrast, capturing the park’s dramatic landscapes in stunning detail. He often sought out scenes that highlighted the interplay of light and shadow, capturing the essence of the natural world in its most pristine form. One of his most famous early photographs, “Monolith, the Face of Half Dome,” taken in 1927, exemplifies his ability to convey the grandeur and majesty of Yosemite’s iconic landmarks.

'Monolith, the Face of Half Dome' (Photo by Ansel Adams, 1927)

Technical Mastery and Artistic Vision

Adams was not only a master of composition but also a technical innovator. He developed the Zone System, a photographic technique that allowed him to control the exposure and development of his images with precision. This system enabled Adams to achieve a remarkable range of tones in his black-and-white photographs, from the deepest blacks to the brightest whites.

His meticulous approach to photography was matched by his artistic vision. Adams saw beyond the physical features of Yosemite, capturing the essence of the park’s wildness and beauty. His images evoke a sense of awe and reverence, inviting viewers to appreciate the natural world in all its splendor.

Ansel Adams and camera (Photo by J. Malcolm Greany c. 1950)

Conservation Efforts

Adams’ work in Yosemite was not just about creating beautiful images; it was also about advocating for the preservation of the natural environment. His photographs played a crucial role in the American conservation movement, raising awareness about the importance of protecting national parks and wilderness areas.

In the 1930s, Adams’ photographs were used to promote Yosemite and other national parks, helping to secure their protection and funding. His images were featured in publications, exhibitions, and books, reaching a wide audience and inspiring a greater appreciation for the natural world.

'Jeffrey Pine' (Photo by Ansel Adams, c. 1940)

Legacy and Impact

Adams’ legacy in Yosemite is enduring. His photographs continue to be celebrated for their technical excellence and artistic beauty. They serve as a powerful reminder of the importance of preserving our natural heritage for future generations.

The Ansel Adams Gallery, located in Yosemite Valley, stands as a testament to his enduring influence. The gallery showcases Adams’ work and promotes the appreciation of photography and the natural world. It is a place where visitors can connect with Adams’ vision and gain a deeper understanding of the park that inspired him.

'Clearing Winter Storm' (Photo by Ansel Adams c. 1937)

Top photo of Ansel Adams in Yosemite National Park c. 1942 (Photo courtesy the Cedric Wright Family)


Trivia Contest: Virgin Islands National Park

Nestled in the heart of the Caribbean, Virgin Islands National Park is a treasure trove of natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant marine life. How much do you know about it? Enter our Trivia Contest and earn a chance to win a Parks Channel cap.

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What famous, wealthy American family was instrumental in creating Virgin Islands National Park?
What percentage of Virgin Islands National Park is underwater?
Which ancient people originally inhabited the area that is now Virgin Islands National Park?
What is the name of the famous underwater snorkeling trail located in Virgin Islands National Park?
What cash crop, harvested with slave labor, dominated the economy of the area that became Virgin Islands National Park?
Who named the Virgin Islands?
Which endangered sea turtle species can be found nesting on the beaches of Virgin Islands National Park?
What is the name of the popular hiking trail in Virgin Islands National Park that leads to the historic petroglyphs?
How many species of coral are found in the waters of Virgin Islands National Park?
What is the name of the highest peak in Virgin Islands National Park?
What type of ecosystem is dominant in Virgin Islands National Park?
What is the name of the beach in Virgin Islands National Park that is often ranked among the most beautiful in the world?
What type of coral reef formation is most commonly found in Virgin Islands National Park?
Which marine animal, found in the waters of Virgin Islands National Park, is known for its long migrations and can often be seen during the winter months?

How Virgin Islands National Park Was Born

The journey toward creating Virgin Islands National Park began in the mid-20th century when environmental conservation was gaining momentum in the United States. Laurance Rockefeller, a prominent businessman, conservationist, and philanthropist—and grandson of oil baron John D. Rockefeller—played a pivotal role in the establishment of Virgin Islands National Park.

Captivated by the island’s natural beauty during a visit in the 1950s, Rockefeller recognized the need to preserve the island’s unique environment for future generations to enjoy. At the time, St. John was a largely undeveloped and sparsely populated island, making it an ideal candidate for conservation.

Rockefeller’s commitment to conservation led him to purchase large tracts of land on St. John Island. His goal was to protect the island’s natural resources and prevent unchecked development. In 1956, Rockefeller donated approximately 5,000 acres of this land to the National Park Service, laying the foundation for what would become Virgin Islands National Park.

Laurance S. Rockefeller

Rockefeller’s generous donation, combined with additional land acquisitions by the government, led President Dwight D. Eisenhower to sign the legislation establishing Virgin Islands National Park on August 2, 1956. This marked a significant milestone in the history of American conservation, as it was one of the first national parks to be created outside of the continental United States.

The establishment of the park came with its challenges. The local community had mixed reactions, with some residents concerned about the impact on their livelihoods and traditional ways of life. However, over time, many came to see the value of preserving the island’s natural resources and the potential benefits of tourism.

Today, Virgin Islands National Park is a beacon of conservation success. It protects diverse habitats, from lush tropical forests and white sandy beaches to vibrant coral reefs teeming with marine life. The park also safeguards important cultural sites, including ancient petroglyphs left by the Taino people and historic plantations that tell the story of the island’s colonial past.

Underwater Treasures

Many visitors to Virgin Islands National Park might not realize that some of the park’s most captivating treasures lie beneath the turquoise waves. Approximately 60% of Virgin Islands National Park is underwater, offering an aquatic paradise filled with vibrant marine life, stunning coral reefs, and hidden wonders waiting to be discovered.

The park’s diverse marine environment comprises habitats ranging from seagrass beds and mangrove forests to intricate coral reef systems. These underwater ecosystems are home to a variety of marine species, making the park a haven for snorkelers, divers, and marine enthusiasts. Among the park’s underwater residents are colorful tropical fish, graceful sea turtles, playful dolphins, and even the occasional nurse shark, all coexisting in a delicate balance.

Visitors can engage with the park’s marine world through a variety of activities, from guided snorkeling and diving tours to kayaking and paddleboarding. These experiences offer visitors a closer look at the park’s coral reefs, which include elkhorn, staghorn, and brain coral formations, which are vital to the health of the marine ecosystem. They provide shelter and food for countless marine species, support commercial and recreational fisheries, and protect the shoreline from erosion by buffering the impact of waves.

A coral reef in Virgin Islands NP (Photo by PlanetWare)

Virgin Islands National Park is dedicated to marine conservation efforts, working tirelessly to preserve these precious underwater environments. Initiatives include coral restoration projects, marine habitat protection, and public education programs aimed at promoting sustainable tourism and environmental stewardship. By raising awareness about the importance of marine conservation, the park ensures that its underwater wonders can be enjoyed by future generations.

The Taino People

Long before the arrival of European explorers, the picturesque island of St. John was inhabited by the Taíno people. These indigenous inhabitants left a permanent mark on the land, with their culture, art, and way of life continuing to inspire and educate us today.

The Taíno were a branch of the Arawak people who originally migrated from the Orinoco Basin in South America. By the time of European contact in the late 15th century, the Taíno had established thriving communities across the Greater Antilles and the northern Lesser Antilles, including the Virgin Islands.

The Taíno society was structured and well-organized, with communities led by a cacique (chief). They lived in bohíos (circular houses) made of wood and thatch, and their villages were often strategically located near fertile land and water sources. The Taíno practiced agriculture, cultivating crops such as cassava, maize, sweet potatoes, and tobacco. They were also skilled fishermen and navigators, crafting canoes from tree trunks to travel between islands.

Taino Petroglyphs, Virgin Islands National Park (Photo by National Park Service)

The arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1493 marked the beginning of significant changes for the Taíno people. The Europeans’ colonization efforts led to the decline of the Taíno population due to disease, enslavement, and violent conflict. Despite these hardships, the Taíno legacy endured through cultural exchange and the blending of traditions, which influenced the Caribbean’s cultural mosaic.

Today, Virgin Islands National Park serves as a custodian of Taíno heritage. The park’s archaeological sites and petroglyphs stand as a testament to the Taíno’s presence and resilience. Visitors to the park can explore these historical landmarks and gain a deeper understanding of the Taíno’s way of life and their connection to the land.

Trunk Bay Underwater Snorkel Trail

Imagine swimming through crystal-clear waters, surrounded by vibrant coral reefs and schools of tropical fish, with the sun casting shimmering patterns on the seabed below. This heavenly scene is a reality at Trunk Bay, one of the most picturesque spots in Virgin Islands National Park. Famous for its pristine beach and stunning underwater scenery, Trunk Bay is home to the unique and captivating Underwater Snorkel Trail—a must-visit destination for snorkelers and nature enthusiasts.

The Trunk Bay Underwater Snorkel Trail is a 225-yard-long underwater path marked by interpretive plaques that guide snorkelers through the coral reefs. These plaques provide interesting facts about the various coral formations and marine species that inhabit the area.

As you snorkel along the trail, you’ll encounter an array of coral types, including elkhorn, staghorn, and brain coral, each hosting a diverse community of marine life. Parrotfish, angelfish, sergeant majors, and other colorful fish dart among the coral, while sea fans sway gently with the currents. The trail’s clear, shallow waters make it accessible for snorkelers of all levels, from beginners to seasoned enthusiasts.

Trunk Bay Underwater Snorkel Trail provides an unforgettable journey through some of the Caribbean’s most stunning underwater landscapes. As you swim among the coral reefs and colorful fish, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the beauty and fragility of the ocean’s ecosystems.

 

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Annaberg Sugar Plantation

Located within the lush landscapes of Virgin Islands National Park, the Annaberg Sugar Plantation stands as a poignant reminder of the island’s colonial past. Once a thriving center of sugar production, this historic site now offers visitors a glimpse into the complex history of the Caribbean.

The Annaberg Sugar Plantation was established in the late 18th century, during a time when the Caribbean was a major hub for sugar production. Sugar, often referred to as “white gold,” was a highly lucrative commodity, driving economic growth and development in the region. The plantation relied heavily on the labor of enslaved Africans who worked under harsh conditions to cultivate sugarcane and produce sugar, molasses, and rum.

The site features several well-preserved structures that provide insight into the daily workings of the plantation, including the sugar mill, boiling house, slave quarters, and the overseer’s house. The plantation is more than just a historical site; it is a symbol of the cultural and social dynamics of its time. The plantation system was a significant part of the Caribbean’s colonial economy, but it also played a crucial role in shaping the cultural landscape of the region. The blending of African, European, and indigenous influences gave rise to a unique Caribbean culture that is still evident today.

Today, the Annaberg Sugar Plantation is managed by the National Park Service and is open to the public. Visitors can take guided tours that provide detailed historical context and personal stories of the people who lived and worked on the plantation. The site also features interpretive signs that offer insights into the various processes and structures found on the plantation.

Annaberg Sugar Plantation, Virgin Islands NP (Photo by NPS)

Top photo of Honeymoon Beach and Salomon Bay on St John, Virgin Islands, by Bradley Furlow


Yosemite: Beyond the Valley

Yosemite Valley provides exciting adventures for hikers, but peak season crowds can diminish the experience. Thankfully, many hidden gems lie beyond the valley, ready to be discovered.


Situated in California’s famed Sierra Nevada Mountains, the stunning waterfalls and high-elevation views of Yosemite National Park are a hiker’s dream.

Carved by ancient glaciers, its iconic U-shaped valley features unique topography, including glacial megablocks, waterfalls, and domes. The park is among the top 10 most visited national parks in the United States, boasting millions of visitors every year.

If you’re planning a trip to Yosemite, you’re probably thinking about doing the popular Yosemite Falls Trail with its breathtaking views of the valley, Half Dome, and Upper Yosemite Fall. Or maybe the Mist Trail is on your itinerary with its intimate view of Vernal Fall, vibrant plant life and dramatic ascent up a giant staircase to the top.

Yosemite Valley offers tons of unique and thrilling experiences. However, the crowds of hikers in popular seasons can detract from your experience. Thankfully, there are dozens of great hikes—and plenty of other adventures—in less-visited areas beyond the valley.

 

Watch Parks Channel creator National Park Diaries make the case for why Yosemite should be considered America’s first national park.

 

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1. Wawona

Wawona is an expansive mid-elevation basin in the southern part of the park. It’s home to giant sequoias and one of the largest mountain meadows in the High Sierra.

The area was originally inhabited by the Ahwahnechee, part of the Southern Sierra Miwok tribe. Many Native American artifacts can still be found, including mortar rocks used to prepare food, as well as arrows and spear tips that serve as reminders of the region’s rich indigenous history. (Remember to always leave artifacts where you find them.)

The town of Wawona is located entirely within Yosemite and precedes the establishment of the park. It serves as a gateway to the southern areas of the park and is known for several historic buildings, including the Wawona Hotel, a classic Victorian resort and National Historic Landmark.

Lower Chilnualna Fall, Yosemite National Park (Photo by Nicolas Barcet/flickr)

Wawona’s clear rivers are perfect for water activities in the summer. Its abundant wildlife—including rare birds like the Great Gray Owl and aquatic creatures such as Western Pond Turtles—add natural beauty to its streams. For photographers, relaxed vacationers and thrill seekers, this location earns a spot on every visitor’s itinerary.

Popular attractions

 

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Chilnualna Falls: A long and steep hike with a rewarding payoff—a comparatively deserted trail boasting beautiful cascades and three picturesque waterfalls. The popular Mist Trail, on the other hand, has only two waterfalls and swarms of people blocking your view!

 

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Wawona Swimming Hole: During the late spring and summer months, enjoy tubing down rapids or read a book while relaxing in a cold, crystal clear river. There is also a swinging bridge at this location for the daredevils of your group.

 

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Yosemite History Center: Are you looking to complement your hiking trip with an enriching historical experience? See rustic cabins and unique exhibits—such as the long-abandoned Chinese Laundry—and get a fascinating glimpse into the community that flourished during the Gold Rush.

2. Hetch Hetchy Valley

Just over an hour’s drive up to the quiet northwest corner of the park, this area is known for biodiversity and grandeur that rival Yosemite Valley. Hetch Hetchy is perfect for hikers and features impressive waterfalls, sprawling granite cliffs and domes, and abundant wildflowers due to its low elevation.

Like Wawona, this beautiful valley was cherished by indigenous people until a decision was made to flood it to create the reservoir. The Hetch Hetchy Reservoir was formed by the O’Shaughnessy Dam on the Tuolumne River and serves as a water supply for the city of San Francisco and surrounding areas. The valley was historically home to the Miwok and Paiute Native American tribes and had significant cultural and environmental importance to these indigenous communities. The construction of the dam has been a subject of controversy since its inception in the early 20th century.

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (Photo by Everett Powers/flickr)

The name “Hetch Hetchy” translates to “edible grasses,” likely due to its abundance of acorns and edible plants. With one of the longest hiking seasons in the park, Hetch Hetchy offers visitors the flexibility to explore its trails almost year-round, providing hikes of all difficulty levels.

Popular Attractions

 

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Wapama Falls Trail: Hike along the reservoir’s edge on a moderate 5-mile round-trip, with a great view at the base of Wapama Falls. During spring, adventurous hikers can cross the bridges below the falls and experience a refreshing mist from the cascade.

O’Shaughnessy Dam: Though its 1919 construction spurred controversy, this 430-foot dam remains an impressive sight. Hikers can take a short, 2-mile hike up to Lookout Point, offering a sweeping view of the reservoir and its backdrop of glacier-carved granite cliffs. The Wapama Falls trail also takes hikers on a scenic walk across the dam.

Evergreen Lodge: After a long day of hiking and spectacular views, hikers can kick back at a tranquil cabin in the woods, cool off in the pool or hot tub, lay in a hammock, or if they still have energy, enjoy the thrill of Evergreen’s ziplines. Known for its terrific restaurant, Evergreen Lodge is ideal for tired visitors ready to relax.

3. Tuolumne Meadows

Prefer the tranquility of high elevation views? Accessible via Tioga Road, Tuolumne Meadows involves an 8,600-foot ascent to a subalpine meadow. This magnificent area features picturesque lakes, trails up its distinctive domes, and a backdrop of mountain peaks accessible by cross-country skis.

Known for its amazing campsites, gorgeous alpine lakes, and secluded hikes, Tuolumne Meadows appeals to novice hikers and families who want to explore the scenery without much of a challenge.

Fun fact: The water sources at Tuolumne Meadows are so clean they require minimal water treatment. The Tuolumne River originates here, flowing through the meadows and eventually reaching Hetch Hetchy which accounts for the vast majority of drinking water in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Popular Attractions

Tuolumne Meadows (Photo by Joyce Cory, flickr)

 

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Pothole Dome: Situated on the western edges of the meadow, a short half-hour hike leads up a smooth, granite dome with panoramic views of Tuolumne Valley, the river, and the surrounding mountains. This spot is rarely crowded, giving hikers a unique opportunity to enjoy Yosemite’s peace and quiet all to themselves.

 

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Cathedral Lakes: For hikers who prefer a longer journey, this 8.2-mile round-trip features the pristine lakes of the High Sierra, reflecting the stunning alpine scenery on the famed John Muir Trail. One of the most popular attractions in Tuolumne Meadows, the subalpine landscape sets the meadows apart from other parts of Yosemite.

 

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Tenaya Lake: Looking for a prime swimming spot without the effort of a long hike? Tenaya Lake—named after Chief Tenaya, of the Yosemite Indians—is 7 miles west of Tuolumne Meadows on Tioga Road. It offers visitors rocky and sandy beaches, as well as canoeing and tubing.

4. Sentinel Dome and Taft Point

This location is often ignored by visitors, partly because of the popularity of neighboring trails, and partly because of its initially unkempt appearance with fallen trees and sparse vegetation.

However, a short and easy-to-moderate hike rewards visitors with arguably the most fantastic view of Yosemite. Located along the road up to Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome offers a 360-degree view of the park including Half Dome, El Capitan, Yosemite and Nevada Falls, and much more.

 

Watch how NatureBridge connects young people to the wonder and science of Yosemite.

Sentinel Dome and Taft Point (Photo by Dawn Endico, flickr)

Popular Attractions

Fallen Jeffrey Pine: The fallen Jeffrey Pine on Sentinel Dome is one of Yosemite’s most photographed trees, celebrated for its poetic beauty and twisted, rugged appearance. Perched on the park’s second-highest point, the iconic tree, which died in 2003, was shaped by its harsh, high-altitude environment.

Taft Point: Hikers can extend their trek with one of the best photography spots in Yosemite Park. The trail is connected to Sentinel Dome, so both viewpoints can be seen in a single day. Taft Point stands on a vertical cliff with an impressive view of Yosemite Valley with notable cracks in the granite that help form a dramatic landscape. Ideal for sunset views and pictures, it tends to be less crowded than Sentinel Dome.

5. Mariposa Grove

Hikers looking for an especially memorable experience should check out the giant sequoias, exclusive to the western Sierra Nevada. These colossal redwood trees are among the oldest and largest trees on the planet, a surreal sight that no Yosemite visitor should miss.

The largest concentrations of giant sequoias are found in Mariposa Grove, which boasts a community of more than 500 giant sequoias. Famous trees to look for include the Grizzly Giant, California Tunnel Tree, and the Bachelor and Three Graces. The grove is found in the southern part of the park and is accessible by a shuttle or 2-mile hike from either Washburn Trail or Mariposa Grove Road.

Follow Alice Ford on a winter journey to Yosemite and Mariposa Grove.

Mariposa Grove (Photo by Robert Brett)

Popular Attractions

 

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Grizzly Giant Loop Trail: A moderately difficult 2-mile loop, beginning at the Big Trees Loop, this trail takes hikers on a tour of all three of the famous trees, the Grizzly Giant being the largest in the grove.

Guardians Loop Trail: For visitors looking for a more challenging and enriching hike, this 1.5-mile loop has unique features including the Wawona Tunnel Tree. Cut in the early 1880s to attract tourists, it unfortunately collapsed in the late 1960s. Other attractions include the Telescope Tree, a hollow sequoia, and Mariposa Grove Cabin, an iconic and quaint cabin originally constructed by Galen Clark who was known as the first European American to discover Mariposa Grove.

 

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Big Trees Loop Trail: Ideal for casual hikers, families, and people with disabilities, this flat loop takes visitors on a 0.3-mile trek past giant sequoias including the impressive Fallen Monarch tree, which highlights just how massive these redwood trees are even after they meet their end.

6. Yosemite Creek Campground

Just an hour north of Yosemite Valley, this location is perfect for campers looking to settle in the midst of stunning scenery and views of famous landmarks. Situated not far from the popular trails and attractions in Yosemite Valley, it’s also near Olmsted Point, Tenaya Lake, Tuolumne Meadows and more. It is only available by reservation—and it’s closed for 2024 for upgrades—so make sure to check for updates and plan in advance.

 

Learn more about visiting Yosemite from Parks Channel creators.

Yosemite Creek Campground (Photo by BG Washburn/Flickr)

Popular Attractions

Yosemite Creek Trail: The trail offers a tranquil alternative to the busy valley, accessing valley landmarks like El Capitan while uncovering hidden waterfalls and serene landscapes.

 

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Olmsted Point: Get ready for breathtaking panoramic views of Tenaya Canyon, Half Dome, and Clouds Rest. Named after landscape architects Frederick Law Olmsted and his son, it provides a unique perspective of Yosemite’s rugged beauty and is accessible via Tioga Road, making it a must-see spot.

While the famous landmarks of Yosemite Falls and El Capitan rightfully capture most visitors’ attention, there are countless unique experiences beyond the valley. From the giant sequoias of Mariposa Grove to the lakes and streams of Wawona, these lesser-known spots offer a tranquil escape from the tourist hotspots in the valley. Deepen your connection to Yosemite’s beautiful landscapes and explore some of the hidden gems of this beloved national park.

 

Top photo of Mariposa Grove by Marty Aligata


The Right Way to Experience Yellowstone . . . Slowly

Last time we went to Yellowstone it was in an aging borrowed RV with squishy brakes.

The good news is we never went that fast. There was so much to see, our fellow park goers kept the speed limit to a walking pace.


You’ll know immediately if there is a bear within a hundred yards. Cars will just stop, creating a “bear jam” that can last until the bears decide to move on. Bison don’t seem to be bothered by cars and freely cross—and often linger—in the middle of the road. It’s a good decision to stay in your car when anything bigger and faster than you is in the vicinity. Best not to risk going viral on social media or worse, not living to regret it.

And why be in a hurry anyway? Nature’s greatest theme park is a spectacle of open plains, forested mountains, deep canyons, cascading waterfalls, explosive geysers, crystal clear hot pools, bubbling cauldrons of mud, scenic lakes and rivers.

Yellowstone is vast, almost 3,500 square miles and it attracts 4 million visitors a year. About half of them will visit between June and August. There are a lot of travel tips on how to avoid the crowds, but going in winter is a good bet to see the fewest people.

Photograph of a hot pool at Yellowstone
Beate Dalbec / Nature's Best Photography

Alice Ford went on a bucket list trip to see the wolves of Yellowstone in below-zero temps and lived to tell the tale. Her great adventure is worth a watch.

Photo Credit: Alice Ford

No matter when you go, you’re going to have to make a plan about where to stay, where to camp, where to eat and what to do. You’ll need to purchase a pass, but you don’t need a reservation to get in. The grand lodges all require reservations up to a year in advance. If you are into camping, there are a dozen campgrounds in the park and you’ll need to make a reservation for them, too. For expert travel advice, Matt and Cheryl of We’re in the Rockies have the best trip planner with tons of useful information.

Yellowstone sits on one of the biggest calderas in the world, the remnant of a supervolcano that is still active but last erupted 70,000 years ago. Legends of dragons drew explorers to Yellowstone Valley, but the Crow believed there was another explanation for what killed the trees and scorched the earth. Grant Bulltail of the Native Memory Project tells the tale.

Photo Credit: Native Memory Project

Today, if you stay on the boardwalks and paths you’ll be fine, just know that in some places the ground below your feet is heated by magma that is turning glacier-temperature water into boiling hot tubs. This makes for quite a show in the upper geyser basin, where Old Faithful, the most famous geyser in the world, can be found. It goes off every 1.5 hours, and the predicted times of launch are posted by the NPS. Half the geysers in the world are here. For what to expect about Old Faithful and how to time your trips, check out Matt’s guide.

There’s plenty of history in Yellowstone, too. If you’re interested in a cautionary tale of what happens if you get lost, there’s the story of Truman C. Everts.

Photo Credit: The History Guy

His misadventure is legend, and the History Guy has the story. A gripping tale of a man who lost his bearings, scalded himself in a geyser, started a vast forest fire, hallucinated from hunger and ended up drinking a pint of bear grease to survive.

After a few days hiking through forests yelling “hey bear” to spook the grizzlies, following the Yellowstone River downstream, and crisscrossing the Continental Divide a dozen times, we finally made our way, slowly, out of the park.

Photo Credit: Author

Featured photo by Carol M. Highsmith


Shenandoah 52: Family-Friendly Hiking

The Shenandoah 52 Explorer Series is 23 trail loops, 52 trail segments, and at just over 150 miles the most achievable hiking challenge in Shenandoah National Park. A dog, and then a baby, inspired Kevin Morgan to create this family-friendly hiking series.

German Shorthaired Pointers (GSP) are not for the faint at heart. They walk into your life, take hold, and wear you down—unless you wear them down first. Daily hikes, early morning walks, and lengthy weekend journeys. Addison had our number from day one. And Addison turned out to be the muse for a family-friendly hiking challenge and an adventure of a lifetime.

Addison, a German Shorthaired Pointer, in Shenandoah National Park (Photo by Kevin Morgan)

Do you live near Shenandoah National Park? Take the SNP52 Hiking Challenge: 23 trail loops, 52 trail segments and just over 150 miles.

A Pixels and Pointers partnership with the Shenandoah National Park Trust.

Find Out More

When my wife, Tobey, and I found out she was pregnant, we were determined to maintain an active lifestyle for our family. Throughout her pregnancy, we found a rhythm in being outside. By the time Lucy joined us in the world, we were determined to maintain that pace. Mission accomplished—Tobey went into labor the same day we went hiking.

And after that bundle of energy—who I flippantly referred to as the human version of a GSP—arrived on the scene, we really needed a plan. Through trial and error (maybe more like trial by fire) we embarked on all the same journeys.

Within her first month of joining us, Lucy was riding shotgun with Tobey (aka in a baby carrier) at Big Meadows in Shenandoah National Park. Each week and month that followed, we continued to venture into the wilderness. That same fortitude is what brought everything to life.

And by the holiday season of Lucy’s first year with us, we were looking at what the following year had in store for our outdoor adventures. Maybe a little more organized for the new year. Anything to avoid the blow out.

Tobey and Lucy Morgan (Photo by Kevin Morgan)
Kevin and Tobey Morgan (and Addison)

By December we had started to formulate a plan. I remember it like it was yesterday. It was a cold December morning that would put into motion a sequence of events that led to the hiking project. The kind of morning that is written about in a Frost poem. The crystalized ice on the windows, the smell of wood fireplaces, the crackling of the leaves from the dry air.

It was over a cup of coffee that my father and I were discussing the outdoors, and our plan for showing our 4-month-old the things that were important to us. We talked about how important it was that we continue to expose Lucy to the natural world. We felt teaching our child about nature and seeing her big sister (the GSP) enjoy the world around her would be important to her development.

In that same conversation with my father, we discussed one of the Shenandoah National Park hiking challenges that’s been around for a few years. We tinkered with the idea of trying the Shenandoah 500—a long-standing challenge to hike on every trail in the park. We both agreed it would be a hefty adventure to embark on. Mostly because the Shenandoah 500 is not 500 miles, it’s more like 700 or 800 miles because many of the trails require doubling back, and a handful are overnight treks. Pre-parent life, it would have been completely doable, for sure. Post, not so much.

We decided perhaps there was an alternative. My father suggested I utilize my skills with mapping and my understanding of Shenandoah National Park to find trails and treks that would be reasonable to complete. Over the years we had spent quite a bit of time in the park, and had hiked hundreds of miles up and down the North, Central, and Southern Districts that year. Why not formalize our knowledge and approach this with a similar format to the Shenandoah 500?

Crafting an adventure with our 4-month-old addition to the family would require looking at the National Park in a new way, using topographic maps and understanding lengths, elevations, and reasonable treks for hiking in the park.

That evening, I sat down in front of my laptop and started to tag the loops I believed worthy of a family-friendly adventure, what the lengths would be, and how we’d approach them. This was the birth of the SNP52. By the end of the evening, I had tagged about 25 trail loops through the three districts of the park, each less than 10 miles long.

By the turn of the clock to 2023, we had launched The Shenandoah 52 (SNP52)—23 hiking loops in Shenandoah National Park—covering 52 trail segments and approximately 150 miles in the South, Central, and North Districts.

We published all the trails on the website, complemented with hiking resources, all on a digital platform with mobile and GPS resources to take on the trails. As the project continued, we decided to start filming each of the trails.

See all of Kevin’s videos of the Shenandoah 52 here.

The Blue Ridge Heritage Project was founded to memorialize displaced families of Shenandoah National Park. (Photo from Blue Ridge Heritage Project)

By that time, I had purchased a few books on the park. I thought I would throw some history into my videos. Why not? Seemed harmless to blend park history with footage of its trails, creating a narrative for the viewers. I almost need a narrator to enter your head right now to say, “that was not the case” for dramatic effect. Because … that was not the case.

You see, the history of Shenandoah National Park is not straightforward. While some national parks may have interesting stories and colorful folklore, that was not Shenandoah. The hiking challenge together with the trail videos morphed into the filming of experts, historians, and the community to tell the park’s story. Few have attempted to tell a complete story of Shenandoah through the voice of the people, including many of the families who were displaced during the formation of the park. We felt, what better way than coupled with a hiking project?

Fast forward to today, we have 3 components to the SNP 52 Hiking Project:

  • Shenandoah 52, Explorer Series: Full 150 miles of hiking trails in loop format as the anchor challenge. Designed for those who seek an aspirational expedition outside.
  • Shenandoah 25, Adventure Series: Reduced trail lengths in out-and-back formats on all trails for families, children, and beginners to start their journey through the park.
  • Documentary Film: Docuseries in partnership with the Shenandoah National Park Trust focused on the elements of the park including history, the community, and the park’s evolution.

It’s a worthy challenge and even better way to bring the family closer to one another, one step at a time. Especially since Tobey insists on being able to tell Lucy that she carried her on each of the 52 trail segments. You can learn more about the SNP52 Hiking Project at www.snp52.com.


Secrets to a Magical Winter in Yellowstone

Only a fraction of Yellowstone’s 4 million visitors choose to explore the park in the winter. Although much of the park is shut down with subzero temperatures, it's still worth a visit. Cheryl Schoss of We're In The Rockies offers expert insights for those up to the trek.


Yellowstone’s official winter season usually goes from mid-December through mid-March, depending on the snowpack. Guests can snowmobile, snowshoe, cross-country ski, ice skate, view wildlife, and go on snow coach tours. Yellowstone is so different in the winter, it’s almost like visiting a completely different park. Very few roads within the park are plowed so most visitors work with a tour company to make transportation arrangements via snow coach or snowmobile.

My husband, Matt, and I write travel guides to help people visit the West. We love Yellowstone and visit every year. Last year we visited Yellowstone in February and had a spectacular experience. Read on to learn all about it and see if a trip to Yellowstone in the winter is for you.

When is the Official Winter Season in Yellowstone?

Snow can begin to fall as early as October. The NPS allows the snow to accumulate on most of the roads. From late October through mid-December there aren’t many park services running at all until a good snowpack is formed, making the roads passable for snow coaches and snowmobiles.

All the lodges and restaurants close for the winter except the Old Faithful Snow Lodge and Mammoth Hotel and Cabins. We chose to stay at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge on our last trip and we loved the cute little cabin we stayed in.

Old Faithful Snow Lodge in Yellowstone National Park stays open during the winter season. (National Park Service photo by Diane Renkin)

We were pretty shocked that the only place to get dinner there was the Obsidian Dining Room and you needed a reservation for that! The Geyser Grill is open for lunch. The Mammoth area also has a couple of restaurants open.

Gateway towns like West Yellowstone and Gardiner still have plenty of restaurants and hotels open but a lot of their normal tourist services are limited. We were super excited that Melba from Optics Yellowstone in Gardiner agreed to let us rent a scope from her so we could watch wolves (more on that later!)

The NPS begins the herculean task of removing snow from the roads in mid-March and the park is pretty much shut down until they can make the roads passable again. Memorial Day is usually the kick-off for the summer travel season.

Bison in Yellowstone National Park (Azurfrog CC BY-SA 4.0 Deed)

What Are the Road Conditions Like?

Unlike the rest of the park where roads are impassable for all vehicles besides snowmobiles or snow coaches, portions of the Grand Loop Road at the north end of the park and the road to Lamar Valley are plowed throughout winter. The small mountain towns of Cooke City and Silvergate would be cut off from essential services if these roads weren’t regularly cleared.

Both town residents and regular visitors are allowed to access these roads but 4-wheel drive and chains are certainly recommended.

Even with best efforts to keep these roads plowed, a snowstorm can temporarily shut down these roads. The park has very few visitors in the winter and getting stranded on the side of the road in a snowstorm is dangerous because it could be hours before you are found. Always know what the weather forecast is before leaving on an adventure.

How Cold Does It Get?

So cold!! Even though I love Yellowstone, I was a bit gun-shy to make the trip in the winter because the temperatures can range from 0 to -20 degrees Fahrenheit. It really is that cold the entire day, most days.

Matt and I shot a few YouTube videos there and it was hard to talk because our faces were so cold. Holding our cameras with our bare hands was sheer torture! One night I left oranges in our car and woke up to find that my fruit for breakfast had turned into rock-solid iceballs. You get the idea. It’s cold!

We found that the temperatures were more bearable when the sun was out. It was also helpful if we were doing something active, like snowshoeing. It made a big difference. If it was windy or snowing, we tried to get indoors ASAP.

Cheryl and Matt Schoss waiting for Riverside Geyser to erupt in Yellowstone National Park. (Photo by We're in the Rockies)

Many guests tour the park from the warmth of a snow coach. After waiting outside for an hour to watch Riverside Geyser erupt, I don’t think that’s a bad idea!

What Parts of Yellowstone Are Closed?

As mentioned earlier, the majority of the park is shut down. This includes campgrounds, hotels and lodges, restaurants, most visitor centers and ranger stations, camp stores, gas stations (you can still pay at the pump at some of them) auto service stations, and medical clinics. If you need any of these services, your best bet is to head to the gateway towns of West Yellowstone or Gardiner, MT.

The winter travel season lasts through mid-March, but services don’t completely open again until Memorial Day and even early June! This is because the NPS has to wait for the snow to melt and clear the roads.

We know several people who tried to visit Yellowstone in early May and had to cut their trip short because of a late snowstorm shutting down the park.

What Parts of Yellowstone Are Open?

Yellowstone Hot Springs (Photo by We're in the Rockies)

There are actually quite a few places that guests can visit, either in their car or on foot in the town of Mammoth. We enjoyed walking around the Albright Visitor Center and looking at the displays. The Yellowstone Archives are also open. This is a great stop right outside the north entrance of the park if you are into history!

We also soaked in Yellowstone Hot Springs one evening. It’s a beautiful facility that we really want to go back to when we visit in the summer. Even though the water in the springs ranges from 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit, I wore a beanie while in the pools and wore my snow boots with my swimming suit walking to the locker room!

Check out our Complete Guide to Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone for more hot springs nearby.

We were able to walk to the Old Faithful Visitor Center from our cabin at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge.

Bear Den Ski Shops located at both the Mammoth and Old Faithful Snow Lodge are open and rent winter gear such as snowshoes and cross-country skis.

Not sure which Yellowstone Entrance is right for you? Download our Free Quick and Easy Guide to Yellowstone’s Entrances! Get the PDF Now!

Gardiner, MT, and the North Entrance

Gardiner, MT has the most tourist services available of all the gateway towns to Yellowstone. Plenty of locals live here and the roads being plowed allow guests to visit the park without the added expense of booking tours.

Gardiner is charming and we loved our stay at the Yellowstone Gateway Inn. We got a great rate with it being off-season and loved how close it was to everything. We also ate at the Wonderland Cafe, the best restaurant in Yellowstone and the surrounding areas (in our humble opinion!) Matt loves their elk chili.

 

Snowcoach on Swan Lake Flat in Yellowstone. (NPS photo by Neal Herbert)
North Entrance to Yellowstone National Park (Photo by We're in the Rockies)

West Yellowstone, MT, and the West Entrance

If you want to see mountains of never-ending snow, look no further than West Yellowstone! Here you can see snow drifts over 6 ft high. Even this small mountain town leaves its roads unplowed to allow snowmobilers easy access to the park.

There are gas stations, hotels, restaurants, and even a few stores open, but you won’t be able to drive your private vehicle into the park. You’ll need a snowmobile or snow coach for that. Guests can also access Yellowstone from the south entrance (Jackson, WY) or the east entrance (Cody, WY) via snow coach or snowmobile.

What Is There To Do?

Our winter trip to Yellowstone was 4 days long (including travel days). We had plenty to do and left feeling like we could have done more. Here are some popular activities guests enjoy at Yellowstone in the winter.

Geysers and Hot Springs

Geysers don’t care if someone is watching or not. They continue to erupt but viewing them is different; Here’s how.

First, the boardwalks to view the geyser basins aren’t cleared. You are literally walking on top of 4 ft of packed snow. At first, I was concerned about this because I liked the guard rails that are normally there to keep me on the path. However, I quickly found that you can tell where the geothermal features are because the snow is melted around them.

Second, the geysers aren’t as pretty. The cold air makes more steam which makes it difficult to distinguish the erupting water from the steam. The springs also lack the bright blue colors they have in the summer. I’m not sure if it’s because the water temperature is cooler, thus allowing the more orange and yellow microorganisms to grow, or if it’s the lack of sunlight creating that pop of color.

Geyser in Yellowstone National Park (Photo by Aftikhar Alam)

Third, you pretty much get the geysers to yourself. Normally, the Mammoth Terraces are PACKED! Not in winter. We walked around for about 40 minutes and never saw another person.

Tours

There is no shortage of tours available in the winter. They are a necessity if you want to see any part of Yellowstone besides the northern part of the Grand Loop Road. Although there are several private companies that transport guests in and out of Yellowstone and offer tours, Xanterra is the official concessionaire that runs winter tours for Yellowstone National Park.

Tours include options to visit the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Old Faithful Geyser Basin, West Thumb, and wildlife viewing tours. You can check out what they have to offer at the Yellowstone National Park Lodges website.

Tours and shuttle services from private companies depart from West Yellowstone, Jackson, Cody, and Gardiner. Here is the comprehensive list of authorized tour companies.

Snowmobile tour on Swan Lake Flat in Yellowstone. (NPS photo by Neal Herbert)

Cross Country Skiing and Snowshoeing

One thing we have noticed is that Yellowstone is for sightseeing in the summer and recreation in the winter. We met several people who were visiting just because they loved to cross-country ski. There are several packed ski trails throughout the park.

We brought our own snowshoes and blazed a few trails but our favorite was when we went on a guided snowshoe tour from the Old Faithful Snow Lodge. Our guide led us to places that are usually off-limits during the regular travel season and pointed out animal tracks and habitats along the way. It was a delight.

Ice Skating

The Old Faithful Snow Lodge has a very small ice-skating rink out back. It’s a pretty cute little area with a fire pit and Christmas lights. Ice skates are available on the honor system for hotel guests to use.

Single female wolf in Yellowstone (NPS photo by Jacob W. Frank)

Many other animals, like bison, hang around closer to where people are than usual. Bison are migratory animals and one of the herds actually migrates out of the park and into the city of Gardiner and beyond.

The bison population of Yellowstone has exceeded what the park can support so state and tribal hunts are held during certain parts of the year. We drove a little way out of the park and witnessed one of these hunts. Although we understand this is probably the best solution at the moment, it is still hard to see.

Snowmobiling

This is a huge thing to do and you will see lots of snowmobilers inside and outside of the park. For those who wish to bring their own snowmobile, the park service requires a permit that is given out via lottery system. People wishing to do this can apply in the fall and limited amounts of permits are given. There are also several regulations.

If you aren’t able to get your own permit or would like to do a tour, there are plenty of companies authorized to do this. Check out this comprehensive list of authorized snowmobile tour companies.

Matt & Cheryl snowshoeing in Yellowstone (Photo by We're in the Rockies)

What Kind of Wildlife Can I See?

Winter is a fantastic time to see wildlife in Yellowstone. While visiting the north end of the park, we met several wolf watchers. Every morning they bundle up, grab their scopes, and camp out for the day to watch these amazing animals. We rented a scope and had no idea how to set it up. The kind wolf watchers helped us get the settings just right and we were able to watch a family of wolves just outside their den. It was so cool!

Do I Need a Car?

No. Although we used our vehicle for portions of this trip, both Xantarra and other tour companies have the option of picking guests up directly from the Bozeman airport.

How to Plan For Your Trip to Yellowstone in the Winter

This was a bit more complicated than planning a trip in the summer. One of the biggest obstacles we faced was arranging our snow coach transportation with our in-the-park lodging.

If you go with a private snow coach or snowmobile company (which is often cheaper than Xanterra), you’ll want to make sure there is lodging available within the park between your drop-off and pick-up dates. The best advice we can give is to book your transportation and lodging at the same time.

Also, winter dates are not exact. Mother Nature is the boss here. There is usually enough snow on the road for snow coaches and snowmobiles from mid-December to mid-March, but that is all dependent on snowfall. Book January and February to reduce the risk of cancellation due to road conditions.

Final Thoughts

We are glad we visited Yellowstone in the Winter and we’ll probably visit in the winter again someday. It was NOTHING like visiting in the summer; the park was barely recognizable. Yellowstone in the winter is wonderful for photographers, people who enjoy recreation, people who hate crowds, and wolf watchers. However, if I was only going to make it to Yellowstone once in my life, I would go in the summer because there is so much more to see and do including waterfalls, more geyser basins, getting out on the water, and great outside the park activities.

Yellowstone's Hayden Valley (NPS photo by Neal Herbert)

If you are planning to visit Yellowstone in the summer let us help you. Yellowstone is confusing because it’s huge and there are so many things to do!

Need a game plan so you don’t miss out on the best things to do in Yellowstone? Check out our itinerary.

Most travelers want to visit the most popular sites and still avoid the crowds. We have a detailed itinerary that gives you a step-by-step game plan so you can get to the best places at the right times.

Our itinerary includes a free audio guide to listen to while driving with over 3-hours of stories about the park.

Download Your Yellowstone Itinerary

YELLOWSTONE TRIP PLANNER: To read or watch all of our content about Yellowstone National Park, check out our Yellowstone Homepage

ENTRANCES: Yellowstone has 5 entrances: The West Entrance, the East Entrance, the Northeast Entrance, the North Entrance, and the South Entrance. Learn which entrance to Yellowstone is right for you with our Free Quick and Easy Guide

THINGS TO DO: Don’t miss all that Yellowstone has to offer including Old Faithful, the Grand Prismatic Spring, Yellowstone Lake, Norris Geyser Basin, Mammoth Hot Springs, and West Thumb and Grant’s Village

GREAT CITIES TO STAY OR CHECK OUT: Learn all about where to stay and where to camp when visiting Yellowstone and things to do in Cody, Wyoming, and other areas surrounding Yellowstone

WHERE TO EAT: Check out the best places to eat including the Old West Dinner Cookout and also where to get groceries and eat picnics in Yellowstone National Park

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Find out if you need a reservation or bear spray and binoculars, as well as tips for driving in and flying to Yellowstone

WATCH: Enjoy videos of gorgeous Yellowstone National Park while learning our best tips for visiting by watching us on The Parks Channel or our Yellowstone YouTube Playlist

Matt & Cheryl Schoss have been road-tripping in the West and seeing the national parks for more than 20 years, first as students in their home state of Utah, and now with their four kids. They’re both teachers—Matt is an adjunct American history instructor at Weber State University, and Cheryl has taught special education for 25 years. Learn more about them and receive weekly newsletters on the Best of the West including: essential travel tips, park updates, stories, and their favorite things to see and do at https://wereintherockies.com/.

Check out our video from four winter days in Yellowstone.

Top photo of skiers in Lower Geyser Basin by Neal Herbert/NPS.